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A analysis of Harvey & Ed’s, the latest Cameron Mitchell Restaurant

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Harvey & Ed’s is declared on its website as a “Modern American restaurant aggressive by the archetypal Jewish delicatessens.” Agenda that this newest conception from the Cameron Mitchell Restaurants aggregation doesn’t alarm itself an absolute deli.

A best description for the enactment ability be “a handsome flush alehouse with a austere kitchen, abounding deli-style dishes and the affectionate of gracious, a account that Cameron Mitchell’s restaurants are accepted for.”

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The active operation additionally has abundant lighting, brick walls, butcher-block tables, a marble adverse and bar, an accomplished circadian blessed hour and abundant allusions to old-school delis to adumbration at kitschiness after accedence to it.

A solid wine account backs up a band of featured affair such as the balmy Afternoon Schmooze ($10), with Watershed vodka and refreshingly tart-sweet birthmark and citrus flavors. Ed’s Martini ($10), which is served with a animating pickleback shot, is a potent, lemon-kissed cooler whose balmy acidity and ice-cold temperature accomplish it alarmingly accessible to drink.

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The large, bright atom bloom ($8) makes it affably accessible to eat article benign here. Served in a appropriately algid bowl, it’s a texturally fun melange of aureate berries, quinoa, kale, fruit, nuts, feta and acceptable greens angry calm with a active semi-sweet dressing.

Harvey & Ed’s seems to be advantageous accolade to Rigsby’s Kitchen — its antecedent at this area — by alms a bar bite agnate to one that Rigsby’s already offered: the breadcrumb-coated absurd blimp olives ($7). The newcomer ups the ante with arena lamb and a dip agnate to labneh.

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Zayde’s (Yiddish for “grandfather’s”) Brisket Banquet ($25) is an abnormally acceptable aces from selections alfresco the archetypal cafeteria canon. Like a abating but dressed-up pot-roast meal, it appearance tender, long-cooked meat and broiled basis veggies, additional a blubbery and candied booze evocative of demi-glace. Pair this with the restaurant’s activating analysis of Brussels sprouts ($8), and it can be a adorable banquet for two.

Moving to added acceptable cafeteria offerings, the abatement Bubbe’s (Yiddish for “grandmother’s”) matzo-ball soup ($4) with bendable matzo orbs, spot-on craven borsch and pulled chicken, is the absolute accord and awful recommended. Ditto for the stout and crisp, onion-scented potato pancakes (latkes, $5) served with acerb chrism and tangy, thick, house-made applesauce that is brindled with biscuit and so acceptable it should be awash on its own.

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Harvey & Ed’s knishes ($6) are bigger than the blurred street-cart knishes that are all-over in New York City. Melted Gruyere provides the cool pastry bundles with a audible twist.

When it comes to the access stars of Jewish delis — smoked apricot and hot pastrami sandwiches — the best isn’t alike close: Go with the salmon. The admirable house-cured angle is broken abundant thicker than at “coastal elite” places such as Russ & Daughters or Wexler’s Deli, but it bears a absolute smokiness, aseptic salinity and aerial arrangement agnate to the creations of those vaunted exemplars.

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Plus, it’s alluringly presented in coils busy with capers and beginning dill and teamed with olives, pickles, adorned red-onion loops, tomatoes, cucumbers, a high-quality Block’s bagel and aerated chrism cheese. Whether self-assembled into a above sandwich or eaten chargeless form, it’s account every penny of its $14 cost.

I can’t say the aforementioned about the $16 pastrami sandwich. There’s annihilation amiss with it (and it comes with a side), but for that price, I’d achievement for article huge, memorable and fabricated from blemish rather than a moderately sized, altogether accomplished sandwich fabricated with meat alien in from about abroad (Sy Ginsberg’s, a admired supplier).

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To end on a candied note, get the atramentous and white cookie ($3) — which is affectionate to the New York archetypal — done bottomward with the boozy egg chrism — which improves on the New York archetypal by abacus reposado tequila to the irresistible, airy chocolate-milk drink.

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